After enjoying two nights at the lovely Jeju Lotte Hotel, we had one more night in Jeju. For our last night, we opted to stay in downtown Jeju, closer to the airport, to explore what Jeju City had to offer. Jeju City has two parts: Shin Jeju, known for its modern and touristy vibe with fancy hotels and upscale shops, and Jeju Downtown. We chose downtown Jeju to experience the famous Dongmun Market and the more authentic side of Jeju.
Despite the generally reliable bus connections with frequent departures, we encountered inaccuracies in the schedules presented on Google Maps. It is recommended to validate the correct timings either with the hotel staff or by using Kakao Maps. Unfortunately, the bus did not have a direct route to our hotel, necessitating our disembarkation at the hospital, followed by a short cab ride to reach our chosen accommodation.Opting for a budget hotel, with the awareness that our time there would be limited, our primary focus was on exploring the city.
Securing a taxi turned out to be quite an experience. In contrast to the helpful Koreans in Seoul, who, despite limited English, were willing to assist, the people in Jeju were not as inclined to offer help. The initial taxi driver faced difficulties locating the hotel using the GPS, seemingly due to an error in the Korean address provided by Booking.com. Consequently, he advised us to disembark, necessitating the search for another taxi. Encountering a similar issue, we were fortunate that the hotel address was also available in English. Employing my modest Korean pronunciation skills, I communicated the street name, leading us to our destination—an intriguing hotel.
Upon arrival, we discovered a peculiar setting—a hallway and a tiny empty lobby with signs scattered everywhere. Although an hour early for check-in, we left our luggage and explored the town, discovering the nearby area, walking the streets, and finding the market. Jeju City offered a distinctive experience, presenting an authentic and not excessively modern atmosphere. The atmosphere seemed a bit dull, probably due to the gloomy weather.
Upon returning to the hotel at 3 pm for check-in, I reached out to the hotel via Booking.com. Two friendly women appeared from a room located at the end of the hall. They were curious about who we were and offered helpful information about evening destinations. The room, while simple, was clean, appeared new, and even featured a laundry machine. The only drawback was the bed, which proved to be quite firm. Nonetheless, we left our luggage and proceeded to explore the city further.
The weather wasn’t ideal, and the city seemed less populated, with few tourists except at the market. Dongmun Market was a vast and diverse experience, with everything from household items to seafood, spices, and street food. The lobster sellers stood out, using fire to fry lobsters while dancing to techno music. The market’s scale was overwhelming, and I longed to taste every dish available.
After the market, we headed towards the sea, hoping to find a beach but discovering only a port. Along the water, there were many restaurants, yet everything appeared empty, with few people around. Despite closures, we visited a Japanese restaurant recommended by the two Korean ladies at the hotel. Ordering through iPads, we tried a variety of dishes—noodle soups, sushi, and deep-fried snacks—all delicious, accompanied by Korean soju.
Exploring the area behind the restaurant, it looked like a shopping street, but most shops seemed closed—possibly due to low season or weather. Nonetheless, strolling through this part of town was delightful, with intriguing streets, vibrant houses, and even a beautiful temple. On our way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon small houses adorned with hearts, igniting curiosity about their purpose. Could they be brothels? The notion crossed my mind, but considering the illegality of such establishments in Korea, the mystery persisted.
Finally, reaching the hotel, we went to bed early as we had an early flight to catch the next morning. Or so we thought (see next post).
Anyah Mroz 