We embarked on a road trip from our new home in Kirkenes to Rovaniemi, Finland – a childhood dream come true. Rovaniemi, Lapland’s capital, is known as Santa Claus’s official hometown, offering a magical winter experience with the Midnight Sun or the polar nights feauturing the Northern Lights.
As it was winter, we drove through the polar nights, and the darkness had already set in. Unfortunately, the conditions were terrible, with no visibility due to heavy snowfall. The snow was so intense that we could barely see anything on the road. Deciding to take a break, we stopped in Saariselka for dinner. Saariselka, a cute little village known for skiing, offered plenty of restaurants and hotels. It was my first time there, and I wanted to see what the village was like. I had considered bringing my mom here for Christmas, but the 3.5-hour drive, especially in the dark and snowy conditions, seemed quite far.
Choosing a restaurant with good reviews in Saariselka, we were drawn to its Christmassy interior. However, despite the charming decor, we weren’t too happy with the choice. The reindeer pizza and reindeer pasta we ordered were not so good – they were bland, lacked flavor, and the dough was not the best. The pasta was the only redeeming aspect, being al dente. While we didn’t try other places to eat in Saariselkä, if this restaurant is considered one of the best, dining options might be limited. Despite the average food, the restaurant had a charming vibe, and Saariselkä felt more comfy than fancy—a perfect spot for a winter getaway with skiing and apre-ski. The village, covered in snow, looked truly magical. We hurried to finish our meal and continued driving further towards Rovaniemi.
As we continued our journey, we realized that there isn’t much on the way from Kirkenes to Rovaniemi, and there are long distances with seriously nothing – no gas stations, no cars, just emptiness. Being stuck there, especially in -20 degrees, is something we wouldn’t want to experience. So, our advice is to go prepared, make sure you have enough gas, and stop at the gas stations in every bigger village!
Arriving in Rovaniemi late in the evening after a prolonged trip due to a restaurant stop and challenging weather conditions, we found our centrally located studio apartment booked through booking.com. Despite our delayed arrival, checking in at 22:30 instead of the original 22:00 was hassle-free. A time difference further contributed to our later-than-planned arrival. Picking up the keys at the owner’s house, approximately 600 meters from the booked apartment, went smoothly. The apartment, featuring a comfortable living space with a bed, a well-equipped kitchen, and a nice bathroom, offered convenient access to nearby amenities, including the northernmost McDonald’s in the world, just a 3-minute walk away, and the main street with bars and restaurants, about 5 minutes away. There is also a Burger King here, the closest one for us. As there are no Burger Kings or McDonald’s closer than that to our home (7-hour drive away), the craving for it becomes quite intense, especially after having had plenty of fast-food options right outside our doorstep when we lived in Warsaw.
After a long drive and a prior workday, we opted for a quiet evening, saving our energy for an early visit to Santa’s Village the next day—the primary reason for our trip to Rovaniemi. Walking through the Main Street, the city was already buzzing with people, lit up by enchanting Christmas lights. The snowy landscape transformed Rovaniemi into a magical winter wonderland, a stark contrast to the summer scenery we encountered when driving through on our way to Kirkenes from the south. Surprisingly, there was a line to get into one of the bars! However, we were too tired, as mentioned earlier. So, we opted for Burger King, purchased some food, returned to the apartment, sipped on Apasamiento wine bought along the way, and spent a relaxed evening watching TV. While it might sound boring, that’s exactly what we needed. Anticipating a hectic next day, we aimed to conserve energy.
Stay tuned for the next post, where I’ll share details about Santa’s Village, the main reason why we traveled to Rovaniemi, our experiences, my favorite dining spot in Rovaniemi, and a glimpse into the nightlife.
Anyah Mroz 