Andaman and Nicobar Islands: Havelock’s Beaches

Heading to the Andaman Islands, I encountered diverse opinions about the beaches on Havelock and the entire Andaman archipelago. My previous disappointment with Neil Island’s beaches left me uncertain about what awaited me on Havelock. In this description, I’ll share my experiences at two beaches on Havelock Island: Rada Nagar Beach and Vijay Nagar Beach, the latter being the location of our hotel.

Rada Nagar Beach

Rada Nagar is renowned as one of the most stunning beaches in Asia. I was determined to explore it early in the morning to witness its best features: during high tide and in good weather. I believed that clear skies would enhance the beach’s beauty, bringing out the vibrant colors of the sea. With experience from various Asian beaches, we were excited to see what awaited us at Rada Nagar.

We visited the lobby and requested the receptionists to arrange a rickshaw for us. However, they promptly discouraged us from opting for a rickshaw to reach Rada Nagar beach due to its steep and uphill terrain, along with the unavailability of rickshaws for the return journey. Instead, they suggested using the hotel’s private taxi service, assuring us that the driver would take us to the beach and later pick us up. While the taxi prices in this area were higher than in other parts of India, it was entirely understandable. Despite the relatively increased cost, it was still reasonable for such an extended roundtrip.

Rada Nagar Beach is situated on the opposite side of the island, and it’s worth noting that Havelock Island is considerably larger than Neil Island. The scenery on the route to Rada Nagar was remarkably beautiful. The road cut through a rainforest in the hills of the Andaman Islands, surrounded only by nature. I appreciated the natural growth of palm trees, distinct from Spain, Egypt, or Turkey, where the sporadically planted palms can sometimes appear somewhat dry. It also differed from the Dominican Republic, where hotels strategically place palm trees on the beach to achieve a more tropical and postcard-like ambiance. This was a distinct experience. It truly felt like a tropical paradise, and I enjoyed it immensely! The taxi driver left us at the pathway to the beach, as he couldn’t drive any farther. Walking along this path, we encountered a few restaurants, small grocery stores, and street food stalls offering items such as samosas and coconuts. Passing by them, we finally arrived at the beach.

When we reached the beach, we were amazed. The beauty of this beach is beyond words. We were overjoyed—this was the paradise I had been searching for! Initially, there were quite a few people at the beginning of the beach, but they seemed to prefer staying in groups in a particular area. Therefore, we walked all the way to the right where there was absolutely no one! The entire beach was ours! As mentioned, we arrived early to experience it during high tide, but it turned out that wasn’t necessary. The beach was equally stunning during low tide, if not more so, as it widened. There was no seaweed, dirt, or trash—just a pristine, white beach!

Comparing this beach to others I’ve visited, it stands out as one of the most beautiful I’ve experienced. The large waves, which we thoroughly enjoyed, didn’t hinder the surprisingly transparent water that made our feet visible even in deeper areas. The warm water temperature, coupled with a pleasant breeze, added to the unique charm of this beach. Not only was it long and uncrowded, but it also lacked any visible buildings, except for the occasional ferry to Port Blair and Neil Island. From the water, all you could see was the beach and the rainforest, creating a serene atmosphere with only the sounds of nature—crashing waves, birds, and wind, free from the noise of cars and crowds. It made me wonder how many more pristine beaches like this still exist. There were no sun loungers or umbrellas, but we found shade under a tree, appreciating the beach’s extreme cleanliness, enforced by strict rules against bringing food, coconuts, or anything that could litter the beach. We initially wanted to buy a coconut but were promptly informed that it wasn’t allowed. The only snack available for the beach was a crushed samosa wrapped in newspaper.

On the beach, “invisible” lifeguards kept a watchful eye on everyone. Though I’m not sure where they were hiding—maybe in the forest behind the beach—one of them suddenly approached us. He kindly requested that we not venture too deep into the water. When we mentioned our swimming abilities, he explained that while we might be good swimmers, many locals are not, and if they see us going too far, they might attempt the same. We understood and happily stayed closer to the shore, just grateful for the chance to enjoy such a stunning beach.

We remained on the beach until the afternoon, as per our agreement with the driver. I’m glad we set a specific time since there was still no cellphone reception, and transportation options like taxis or rickshaws were nowhere to be found. While we could have spent the entire day on this beautiful beach, it turned out to be a wise decision not to, as we ended up getting quite sunburned.

Vijay Nagar Beach

We decided to dedicate two of our days to the beach at our hotel, known as Vijay Nagar Beach. Aware of the low tide setting in during the afternoon, we made it a point to rise early and head to the beach. Until the second day of our stay, we had only seen this beach during low tide and cloudy weather upon arrival, so we hadn’t fully appreciated its beauty. A smile couldn’t help but form on my face as I witnessed the true allure of this beach. With calm waters and no waves, the crystal-clear sea displayed a beautiful turquoise color. The sand was incredibly white, almost blinding to the eyes. As we waded into the sea, groups of fish leapt away in front of our feet, creating a magical sight.

What made this beach even more special was the lush nature of jungles and rainforests that surrounded it. Similar to Rada Nagar beach, no buildings were visible from the water; hotels were discreetly nestled behind gardens of palm trees and other tropical flora. While this beach reminded me of some in Thailand or the Koh Rong Samloem island in Cambodia, the water’s color seemed even more beautiful here.The beach’s unique charm was heightened by its natural surroundings, surrounded solely by untouched nature. Moreover, we had the entire beach to ourselves, with no other people in sight. Perhaps it was because the majority of visitors were Indian tourists who didn’t spend much time on the beach, or maybe it was due to the island having few people in general. Whatever the reason, it suited us perfectly.

Other beaches

Havelock is renowned for its many stunning beaches, but we only explored the two mentioned earlier. Our initial plan included a visit to Elephanta Beach, famous for its elephants swimming alongside visitors. Although the elephants are no longer present, we heard it’s an excellent spot for snorkeling. Unfortunately, swimming and snorkeling were prohibited during our stay, and the beach had shifted its focus to motorized water activities, not aligning with our preferences after our experiences on Neil Island.
In addition, access to the beach requires an approximately 30-minute walk through the jungle, which became even more problematic as the beach had also been temporarily closed due to the recent cyclone. We were informed that this path becomes particularly hazardous and slippery after a cyclone, maintaining its slippery condition for an extended period following the rain. This is a crucial consideration for potential visitors, and it’s important to note that there is no alternative land route; the only options are traversing through the jungle or arriving by boat.

We were also informed about another beautiful beach featuring some “special” rocks nearby, situated on the same side of the island as our hotel. However, after witnessing the beauty of the beach at our hotel, we opted to stay there.

It’s worth mentioning that before our trip to the Andaman Islands, I read several blogs where people expressed disappointment in Havelock and the Andaman Islands overall. Some argued there were no beautiful beaches and that the pictures online were actually from Thailand. This left me confused. Did they explore different beaches than we did? It seems probable.

Havelock, in general, exceeded my expectations with its stunning beaches. The initial disappointment I felt after visiting Neil Island vanished completely, and the beaches in Havelock truly resembled paradise. Even now, back in my home country, the beauty of the two beaches I explored lingers in my memory, and I genuinely hope to return someday. The Andaman Islands offer breathtaking scenery, wonderful people, delicious food, and pristine beaches. It stands out as one of the most exotic places I’ve visited, and I highly recommend it to anyone who shares my taste in vacations. You’ll fall in love with it!

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